Phase Four Industries - WHAT OPTIONS DO I HAVE IN SYSTEMS FOR DUMPING WASTE FROM MY RV?

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WHAT OPTIONS DO I HAVE IN SYSTEMS FOR DUMPING WASTE FROM MY RV?

Friday, June 16 2006 @ 10:38 AM Pacific
Contributed by: christine
Views: 1,372

There are three methods in use today for dumping human waste from an RV.

The first method is the system (well not really a system) currently supplied by the RV manufacturer. Oh, sorry but most RV manufacturers leave it up to the RV owner to figure out what to buy at a retail RV accessories store. If you were to buy an RV that has a “starter kit” for hook ups, they are not supposed to be actually used, they are supplied by the manufacturer or the dealer to give you the feeling they are concerned about you having a “safe and sanitary method of removing waste from your RV”. The fact is, this kit should be tossed in the trash because of the poor quality. It WILL cause you to have a bad first experience.

Assuming you didn’t get this kit, you need to buy a sewer hose or two. There are three or four choices here depending on the store. All of the sewer hoses available are made of vinyl or in one case “polyolefin” which is a material used for shrink wrap applications. The method of construction is most important here, and all sewer hoses for sale in retail stores (with a couple of exceptions) are made the same. The wire inside the hose is sandwiched between a layer of material. Drag the hose on the ground and chances are really good that you will see the wire, which means you have a leak - Time for a new hose. Now for the fittings, both at the RV and the sewer inlet. The bayonet style fittings are the most commonly used and are simply poorly engineered for the application. You push the fitting on to the receiving fitting, after removing the cap, and then twist the unit which causes the seal to distort. If not immediately, over time you will get a drip of the nasty. If all goes well, and you have successfully transferred your waste from the RV to an approved sewer inlet, you must disconnect the hose from the RV, clean the inside (to avoid unpleasant odors) and find a suitable space to store the unit. Try doing this without spilling any water on the ground around the site. One would think after 30 plus years, that the RV manufacturers would have designed a system that would protect you, as well as the environment, from this nasty but necessary task.

The second method used by some is a macerator pump system. These can be purchased in RV accessory stores, as well as an option by a couple of RV manufacturers. The first question I have is: If these are so good, why do the high end bus style converters not use them? They can buy and install any system because cost is not a factor. The reason is that they have in the past used them, but the difficulty of use by the average RVer, coupled with the maintenance required, the energy needed to run, and the time it takes to dump the tanks, makes no sense. What drives people to use these pumps is two fold: One- they have not had a durable long lasting 3” sewer hose and the proper fittings to do the job. Two- they need to use a pump on occasion to pump uphill to the clean out. Ninety nine percent of the time the pump is not needed, so why go to the expense and time to do a simple task?

The third method is a system called Waste Master. This system comes in about 6 or 8 different configurations depending on the RV it is being installed on. The premise for the system is the result of identifying the problems associated with the transfer of waste itself. #1 Problem: Besides the pain of disconnecting and cleaning of the 3” hose, there is the mess left by others to deal with, and the mark it leaves in our environment.
#2 Problem: The components used to do the transfer, which are not suited to stand up to the initial pressure when the dump valve is opened. In addition, the fitting going into the sewer inlet, has no way of being shut off, if a leak is detected. The only place to stop the flow is back at the dump valve. Needless to say, the mess left after an accident is embarrassing, as well as, contaminating the space we all come to enjoy, the great outdoors.

Waste Master is the simple solution. It starts with having the proper tools used to transfer waste. With that in mind, we went in search of the best hose suited for the job. The Sewer Master hose is made out of the right material and constructed in such a way that it is extremely durable. Next, we designed a nozzle for the approved sewer inlet with a handle, a swivel, a compression donut to hold it in the sewer hole and a lever to stop the flow, if necessary. In addition, when the nozzle is in the stored or closed position, no drips or fumes can escape. Next comes the coach connection. We decided that if the hose is connected to the RV at all times, it would not need to be cleaned. So we found industrial grade 3” threaded fittings and the proper hose barbs, to insure a leak, drip free connection between the fitting and the hose. When installed on any RV, you simply pick up the nozzle and walk it to the approved sewer inlet, wedge the compression donut on the nozzle into the hole and when you are satisfied all is well, open the nozzle valve. Then go back to the coach and open the Black valve, by pushing a button and the transfer begins. Time now to dump the Grey water which cleans out any Black water contaminates. The holding tanks can be flushed as well, if the RV has sprayers for this purpose. When the task is complete and the hose is empty (it can have up to ½ gallon of water left in the hose), simply close the nozzle valve, lift the nozzle out of the sewer hole (replacing the sewer hole cap) and return it to the RV. You are finished and have not soiled the environment or yourself. In addition, the dumping process took less than 5 minutes. A pump system would have taken 2 to 3 times longer. Remember, I said in some cases you may need to use a pump, in which case, you simply remove the compression donut from the nozzle and connect the pump, using an adaptor, open the valve on the nozzle, open the dump valve, turn on the pump, wait until the pump sounds much louder than it did. Then turn it off, close the dump valves, then the nozzle valve, remove the adaptor, clean the adaptor and pump, as well as the small hose and, well you get the idea.

If you have any questions or would like to discuss this topic simply go to your web site www.wastemaster.net and write to me, Dumper Doug using our forum.

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Specializing in :Waste Master, Drain Master, Sewer Master, Pure Power, waster digester, gate valve, dump valve, waste valve, sewer valve, speciality valve, holding tanks treatment, eliminate odors, tank chemicals, Pure Power, Industrial Gate Valve, tank drain valves, waste water control.

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